Generally I get to a town by mid-afternoon and find an albergue (pilgrim hostel). Almost everyone carries a camino guide bought at a book store months ago. Some people have photocopied their book and throw away the unneeded pages as they go. Every ounce hurts. Pilgrims have registered on a pilgrim office and carry a "passport" or "credential". This passport entitles us to stay at pilgrim-dedicated places or anywhere else, if desired. The passport is rubber stamped at albergues and this proof of passage will eventially earn us a certificate. Ok, so I'm at an albergue now. Shower, put on clean underwear and clean tshirt with previously worn clothes (if not too disgusting), handwash dirty clothes and put them out to dry, forage for food. Some people eat a pilgrim supper but that isn't served at local restaurants til 7:30. Its hardy tho...soup or salad or spagetti, then fish or chicken or pork with fries, then a dessert and wine . All for 10 - 12 euros (multiple by 1.5 and you'll be close). Everyone changes to sandals or flipflops for the evening. Backpacks are confidently left behind at the albergue.Some people buy groceries and cook in the public kitchen in the albergue. Some buy tapas (like "starters") and eat earlier. To bed anytime after 9 pm ( I wear panties and tshirt that I just put on clean and will be wearing tomorrow) but first trying to email, journal, blog, visit with new friends, plan effort for next day based on guidebook. Lights out at 10 pm. Bunk beds crammed into small or big rooms. Clothes draped everywhere and backpacks under beds and underfoot. Snoring, tossing in creaking beds, loud desparate cries of sleep apnea sufferers. At 5:30 the early birds are rustling, by 6 many are moving by flashlight and all the floor space is in use. By 7 everyone is on the move, many have left and are following the trail indicators by flashlight. Lights are on in the albergue and everyone must be out by 8. Some make a breakfast before they leave. I eat crackers or bread sticks while I walk, getting going around 7:30. Too dark for me before that. Then we walk. Most have 2 poles like mine. Some have one wood staff. Some have nothing. It usually takes 2 hrs to get to the first hamlet with an open bar (that's what the little cafes are called). Whoa! Rejoice cuz then everyone stops for cafe con leche and potato tortilla and a short break. Thats when you might see someone you met and liked but lost track of. Today they were one town behind you but they started earlier so you are in the same place. Thats fun. More walking. Maybe you stop at another bar, or buy a piece of fruit and tin of tuna. Some people walk longer and farther and faster. Or slow and steady. You pass someone and say hi. Their pace and language matches yours and you feel like chatting. Could be comments about blisters, scenery, career disappointments, loss of child. Could walk alone and have long conversation inside your head, sing random songs, remember what colour your pygamas were when you were four. Everyone is kind, interesting, hopeful.
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| straight down and straight up |
Rained ALL DAY!!!
Tapas
Beauty on a rainy day...heather maybe
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